Understanding Sauce Remoulade and Its Uses

Celeriac is a winter vegetable, slightly starchy but crunchy, with a celery flavor. It makes a great soup, and it's a fine addition to a gratinéed dish or coleslaw.

If you have been to France, you have very possibly been offered a salad called céleri-rave rémoulade, which is the celeriac or celery root cut into julienne strips and tossed with a mustard-flavored mayonnaise, perhaps with a bit of parsley. It's a very popular first course for a bistro prix fixe lunch.

My personal variation is to add finely sliced fennel bulb and perhaps some baby endive (witlof) to the salad. It has lovely crisp, fresh textures and a bit of bite.

The only trouble is that if you tried to make céleri-rave rémoulade with classic Sauce Rémoulade, you would find it a less-than-pleasant combination. While Sauce Rémoulade is also a derivative of mayonnaise, it is flavoured up with herbs, pickles and anchovies, so that the taste is quite distinctive. Sauce Rémoulade is designed to go with cold meats and picnic meats: leftover roast in sandwiches, cold tongue, cold meatloaf, brawn, ham, and corned beef - that sort of thing.
Outside France, Sauce Rémoulade is popular as a topping for hot dogs, to accompany chips or fries and as a topping for hot roast beef.

Sauce Rémoulade is similar to Tartar Sauce in some ways - the ingredients are quite similar, although Tartar sauce usually has vinegar added for a shaper flavor.

The origins of this sauce are not clear. The earliest recipe that has been found appeared in Alexandre Viard's Le Cuisinier Royal in 1817. This culinary encyclopedia was the basic reference book for professional cooks throughout the 19th century. I've translated the recipe and here it is:

You'll have a glass full of mustard and put it in a bowl so you can mix, and you chop a few shallots, a little ravigote [velouté sauce seasoned with chopped chervil, chives, tarragon, shallots and capers], which you put in your mustard; you will throw in six or seven spoonfuls of oil, three or four of vinegar, salt, and coarse-ground pepper and you combine it all together; you put in two raw egg yolks that you mix with your rémoulade, and take care to turn it well, so that your sauce well is combined: it must be a bit thick.

My own recipe for Sauce Rémoulade is:

Ingredients (all can be altered to taste):

1 cup mayonnaise (freshly hand-made for preference)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3-4 anchovy fillets

3-4 cornichons (baby French dill pickles)

2 tablespoons fresh parsley

1 tablespoon fresh French tarragon (or 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon)

I tablespoon fresh chervil (or 1/2 teaspoon dried chervil)

Method:

Place the mayonnaise in a bowl.

Add the mustard to taste and mix. It should have quite a strong mustard flavour.

Chop the herbs, finely, add to the bowl.

Chop the anchovies, capers and cornichons finely and add to the bowl.

Mix everything well to combine.

Taste and adjust the amount any of the ingredients to suit your palate.

Add salt and pepper if required.

Please remember that you are dealing with raw egg yolks, so if you are making your mayonnaise from scratch, make sure the eggs are fresh and from a reliable source.

This sauce will keep under refrigeration for 2-3 days. The salt from the anchovies and the acid from the pickled capers and cornichons will help to preserve its freshness.

This sauce has of course migrated to some of the former French colonies. In Louisiana, Sauce Rémoulade is similar but has paprika added, so that the color is red rather than the yellow of the classic Rémoulade, and is also quite spicy. There, it is traditionally served with shrimp.

You can watch me making Sauce Rémoulade at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=briFSwq7iFQ

Anne Clarke, known as The Sauceress, is a recipe publisher, enthusiastic amateur cook and giver of dinner parties. Visit http://saucerecipes.tv to see all her recipes and videos.

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How to Make Abraysham Kabaub or Silk Kebab

How to Make Abraysham Kabaub or Silk Kebab

In this article, I would like to teach you, our valuable reader, how to make an Afghan dish by the name of Abraysham Kabaub, or, in other words, Silk Kebab. This dish is deemed most suitable to be used as a dessert, however, it may be eaten in any which way pleases you since you as an individual are unique in many ways. The ingredients I will include in this recipe will make enough Silk Kebab for thirty servings.
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